There are several methods of highlighting panel lines that
are useful to the aircraft modeler. Washes and other methods help to show the
detail present in a kit and break up large surface areas, to avoid a flat
continuous tone to the paint, which in scale, can at times, end up looking “toy
like”. These methods can be combined with other weathering methods such as
pastels, airbrush fading etc… to achieve various effects. Let’s look at some of
the methods.
"Washes"
Washes are simply highly thinned paints, which are flowed
into the panel lines of the model. The process itself is very simple.
Preparation of the wash first involves determining which
type you would like to use. Washes come in two forms, being either oil or water
based.
In the oil-based variety, enamel hobby paint, or oil-based
artist’s paint is mixed with any number of appropriate thinners, such as
turpentine or mineral spirits. In terms of thinning ratio, it’s a matter of
preference as to how dark you would like your wash, but a good rule of thumb is
about ten parts thinner to one part paint. What you’re looking for is really
tinted thinner at this point, rather than thinned paint. If using enamel hobby
paints, it is best to use the gloss variety, as they will flow into the panel
lines more easily.
Water based washes are prepared in a similar manner, using
water and a drop or two of dish detergent to improve flow. The water based
washes can also use the powder obtained from chalk pastels as the coloring
agent, but this is not a method I have personally tried.
Before applying the wash, or any of the other highlighting
methods, the model needs to have a gloss finish. A flat finish will absorb too
much paint into its microscopic hills and valleys, excessively darkening the
whole aircraft, and making it difficult to remove the excess. My normal process
is to paint the model with flat hobby paints, apply a gloss coat for decaling
purposes, followed by a second coat of gloss to seal the decals against the
subsequent weathering, followed by a final flat coat. My personal choice of
gloss is Future Acrylic Floor Finish. Future is a tough acrylic formula that is
easily airbrushed straight from the bottle, and cleans up easily with
ammonia-based window cleaner. Oil based washes in particular are very
compatible with Future, and do not attack the finish the way they can to some
enamel based gloss coats.
After the surface is properly prepared the wash is simply
flowed into the panel lines, and around projections with a pointed brush.
Neatness is not essential, as excess wash will be removed in the next step.
Once the wash is completely dry (one hour should suffice) and all thinner
evaporated, very lightly dampen a soft cloth with mineral spirits and gently
wipe in the direction of airflow, removing the excess wash. In hard to reach
areas a brush with a drop of thinner on it can be used.
Be careful not to use too much thinner for
the removal process, as you may dislodge the wash from the lines, as well as
possibly break through the gloss coat and possibly damaging the underlying
paint. That is why it is important to let the wash dry thoroughly before
attempting to remove the excess. When using washes made from artist’s oils it
is at times not even necessary to use thinner, as a dry cloth will suffice for
removal of the excess, due to the very slow drying characteristics of these
paints.
In terms of colors of paint to use this is a matter of
personal choice. Black and gray are the most popular, but the black in
particular can at times look too stark on certain base colors. In these cases,
some of the typical artists colors like Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna can produce
better results. Also, the wash will darken your base color to some degree, no
matter what your gloss coat, so you may want to add some white to your original
paint colors to help with this.
There are times when you will want to apply a wash for
reasons other than to highlight panel lines, such as to simulate stains such as
fuel spills. In this case it is best to apply the wash over the final
flat coat, as you want the wash to soak into the paint and darken that
area.
"Micro Pens and Pencils"
On some kits the panel lines are very shallow, and even with
careful wiping, you will lose much of the effort when attempting to use a wash.
In this case you can use a Micro Pen or a pencil to highlight the lines.
Micro Pens are simply super fine permanent felt tip pens,
available where art supplies are sold. While still wet you can remove excess ink
with a water dampened cloth, yet they dry waterproof. Simply trace along the
panel lines and remove any excess ink as you go. Vents, landing gear, wheels
and grilles do not accept this method well, due to irregular sizing and shapes,
but will obviously respond to a wash, and I’ll commonly combine methods on a
single model. The pens are also useful for simulating a lubricant leak. Simply
place a dot where you want it, and streak back in the direction of airflow with
a damp finger.
Pencils can also be used on the shallow panel lines, and do
not require any clean up of excess, unless you stray out of the line. A variety
of colored pencils can be used, or a standard lead pencil. When using the lead
pencil, I favor a .5mm mechanical type, as the point is always sharp that way.
The final flat coat, applied after weathering is complete, will tone down any
shine that occurs from the pencil lead. The pencil method also works very well
when you want to highlight raised panel lines.
